Five Corners, Essex Junction, VT 05452 (NOW CLOSED)
The Village of Essex Junction, Vermont owes its existence to a dam. Like many towns and villages in Vermont and New England, it can trace its origin back to colonial days. The dam was constructed by Ira Allen, the less famous brother of Ethan Allen, a figure whose historical influence casts a large shadow over Vermont. The dam was constructed on the Winooski river in, what was at that time, the Essex Township. A saw mill was constructed to process logs to be sent down river to Lake Champlain. The build up of industry around this mill continued, including a railroad junction that connected six different lines. A railroad station was built as a result of increased traffic coming through these railroad lines. Originally, the areas around the meeting of these railroad lines was named “Painesville” after Governor Charles Paine, who had constructed one of the railroad lines (The Burlington to Northfield line), but conductors would tell passengers that they were arriving in “Essex Junction,” referring largely to the rail line junction point, and that name stuck. The railroad brought prosperity and population to the growing area and, in 1892, the state legislature approved the formal incorporation of the Village of Essex Junction.
As the town and the village grew, the need for food and lodging for travelers grew with it. In 1914, a group of Essex Junction businessmen purchased the Job Bates residence and converted it into what is now called “the Lincoln Inn.” The inn’s proximity to the railroad, in addition to another junction of transportation, made it particularly desirable. The inn is situated right atop what is called today “Five Corners,” a meeting place of five roads: Pearl Street, Maple Street, Lincoln Street, Main Street, and Park Street. To this day, a complicated series of lights controls and regulates traffic through “Five Corners.” This is complicated whenever a train comes through Essex Junction. Many a resident has cursed their bad luck at missing their light at Five Corners and getting stuck on the other side of the rail on Maple Street. Back when Dominos Pizza was running its national campaign of “thirty minutes or it’s free,” local teens would try to time their pizza orders to delay the delivery people by train or “Five Corners,” a ploy that, more often than not, did not bear fruit.
Essex Junction’s claim to fame is largely that it is home to IBM. “Big Blue” employs a great deal of the residents of Essex Junction and had a large presence in the community. The other event that places Essex Junction in the spotlight every year is the annual Champlain Valley Fair and Expo. Like many state fairs in rural states, it is heavy on livestock and 4h with the typical fare rides and attractions. For such a small state as Vermont, the fair has been able to attract some surprisingly big acts such as Bob Dylan, Gloria Estefan & the Miami Sound Machine, Cyndi Lauper, and Metallica. Held at the end of summer, the fair attracts a significant amount of visitors each year.
The Lincoln Inn no longer provides any services as a lodging residence. The floors that served as rooms now house office space. The lower level still operates as a bar, restaurant and coffee shop. The restaurant has table service and a full menu of entrees. The more popular choice for lunch is the coffee shop. Housed in a side addition, the coffee shop looks more like a diner than the rest of the colonial styled restaurant. Take a booth at the Lincoln Inn Coffee shop, and you’ll be treated to a view of Five Corners and the gas station next to the Lincoln Inn. Don’t let this detract from the enjoyment of this quirky restaurant. Decorated in country cliché, the Lincoln Inn Coffee Shop has come up in the world from its former reputation in the early 1980s. New ownership in the 1900s has changed the look of the Lincoln Inn, giving it a much needed facelift. The staff is kind and attentive, and the menu is typical American lunch faire with a quirky addition. The current owners of the Lincoln Inn are Greek and have introduced Greek food favorites to the menu. Alongside of the hamburger and clam chowder one would expect to find in an New England restaurant, you can find gyros and souvlaki, a Mediterranean twist on a traditional Vermont dining experience.
The Onion rings at the Lincoln Inn I ordered were cheerfully delivered by my attentive waitress and were golden, but not overcooked. Unlike some restaurants that choose to serve their rings with a sauce, the Lincoln Inn serves its onion rings unadorned (which is fine by this reviewer). Crispy and not too oily, the seasoning is flavorful but not overwhelming. I tried the gyro and was pleasantly surprised. I doubt they had the meat shank in the back, but the gyro was good and the tzatziki sauce surprisingly tangy and flavorful.
Overall, not a five star experience by any means, but if you’re in the mood for a quick lunch, stop by the coffee shop at the Lincoln Inn. Decent rings paired with the Greek fare make for a nice afternoon. When you’re done, take a ride down Maple Street and enjoy classic Victorian homes. Continue down River road for lovely views of the Champlain Valley.
RING RATING: Three out of Five stars.
